Akaroa Harbour
Sunday 16 February 2020
The big day had arrived – we were going to relocate Chimere from Lyttleton Harbour all the way around the Banks Peninsular to Akaroa Harbour; the site of the popular and ever-quaint village of Akaroa. Whether it’s the sense of remoteness, the beautiful surroundings, or the early French influence dating back to 1840, or maybe a combination of each, Akaroa is a popular destination for many visitors to New Zealand.
So popular in fact that 92 cruise ships will anchor in the bay this season, with a steady stream of small tender craft ferrying passengers to and from the local wharf, where they are welcomed by town officials, to then enjoy what the region has to offer, or just wander the charming streets; many of which, along with the houses and other buildings, are distinctly French.
Whilst we would be going around Banks Peninsular, the truth is we wouldn’t be going right the way around. And although Captain Cook, way back in 1770, recorded this prominent piece of land as an island (which it certainly looks like from out at sea), it most definitely is a peninsular; extending out east from the edge of the Canterbury Plains.
Of course, as Captain Cook travelled around he wrote the charts. For us it was somewhat easier. We had, maybe 4 or 5 forms of electronic charts and plotters on board, all linked to GPS trackers, tour guides, cruising guides, plus the official paper charts to boot; actually based on Cooks original 250 year old efforts.
It was an early start for us, because with close to 50 miles to travel, we would need at least 7 hours to cover the distance, at an average speed of 7 knots. Aboard for the ride we welcomed Matt’s wife Philomena, plus John’s daughter Felicity and Felicity’s friend Alice; making a total of nine.
The all-important weather forecast looked “Okay” … not brilliant, but just OK. At one point, a couple of days ago, we were considering deferring the trip, but in the end we felt conditions would be “acceptable”. At least the wind would be from the north east, and NOT on the nose, and so long as we got underway early when it was predicted to be lighter, we would be further around the peninsular – and in more sheltered waters – by the time it came in stronger in the afternoon.
One thing I hadn’t fully anticipated, it must be said, is the sloppy and confused sea that remained from the past few days of blowy conditions, which hadn’t fully subsided by the time we made our way out of the Lyttleton Heads.
In summary, it must be said that – at the end of the day – everyone performed admirably. Despite the lumpy conditions we made remarkable time (ably assisted by the engine) and by around 2:00pm we were anchoring in the blissfully calm and sheltered Flea Bay; close to the entrance of Akaroa Harbour itself.
Apart from sitting under a gum tree for 5 minutes, there is nothing like a calm, settled anchorage for revitalising those who might have, just a few minutes beforehand, been suffering the effects of the ship’s motion. Empty stomachs certainly guaranteed good appetites and we were especially fortunate to have amazing food and drinks to share – courtesy of Felicity, Philomena and Alice.
At this point a very special mention must be made of Felicity’s egg and bacon pie creation. It was enormous, it was delicious and it was stunning. It seemed to feed everyone, with more to spare – thank you Felicity.
At lunch, after much anticipation (plus a certain amount of initial embarrassment possibly) Alice broke out the ship’s violin … doesn’t your yacht have a violin?! After a short period of intense tuning, ably assisted by John whose strength and skill with timber, enabled him to successfully twist the final A-string peg a quarter-turn – Alice thrilled us with her amazing skills. This was backed up by Dean on the ship’s guitar – which is usually stored in its solid, corner-sewn case, that he felt might have been taken from Maria Von Trapp – and Samantha on vocals. For the communal numbers, like Maltzing Matilda, we all joined in, making for a wonderful end to a most memorable day.
Whilst the sea conditions left a few feeling a bit off-colour, for part of the trip, (and I think we all know what colour that might have been) the amazing wildlife – dolphins, albatross, massed bird gatherings and penguins – along the way, kept us all spell-bound. The dolphins in particular must have been with us nearly the whole way, diving, jumping, racing away, racing back … they just seemed to be having such fun.
In addition, there were the stunning cliffs, rolling hills and valleys, plus the steady succession of bays and inlets, to our starboard side, all remnants from when Banks Peninsular was a very large, twin-volcano; now the harbours of Lyttleton and Akaroa.
On reaching Akaroa, there was uber-mum and wife Maryke to greet us, with smiles, hugs and of course the all-important car for the return drive home.
It really was a successful day. Full of new experiences and sensations for many, and an opportunity for those of us who’ve spend a lot of time aboard, to look again through new eyes at just how amazing and unique this sailing and exploring caper really is. To see the world from the sea and to remove yourself from the familiar home environment for just a time.
While this stage of the NZ2020 voyage was fast coming to an end, focus was starting to turn to the next leg – 300 miles south to Bluff; the port of New Zealand’s most southern city, Invercargill.
To undertake this passage, I was hoping to recruit some more crew, and up until two days ago, all my efforts had been unsuccessful. “What about the internet?” I thought. So I got back on-line sending multiple “Waves” (not “Winks”) to every (nearly every) possible candidate on the “FindACrew” website, who was currently resident in New Zealand.
Fortunately, fishing for crew members has been more successful than fishing for fish, because within a day I had an online response from a chap called Carsten, a German guy in his 50s who had been travelling around the country in a campervan with his daughter, who now had time to spare; his daughter having just flown back to university in Sydney (where she is studying marine biology)
“Yes, I would be happy to come aboard” said Carsten, during our 4 minute phone conversation.
“Can you meet us at Akaroa?”, I inquired.
“Yes, no problem, I see my daughter off on Sunday, and can then maybe catch a taxi to Akaroa”
Such was the extent of my in-depth crew-screening process. Carsten sounded like a decent bloke. His on-line profile seemed believable. And what’s more, he would be waiting at Akaroa when we arrived; willing and able to be aboard for the next 2 weeks … and possibly more later on. What could possibly go wrong?!
So now, after seeing off our sailing guests and soaking up the vibe of this wonderful little part of New Zealand, Dean, Sandy, Samantha and I were looking for a German man in his 50s wearing a blue t-shirt. In the end, after my second phone call and conversation … “yes, I’m near a small building with a red roof, near a restaurant called Ma Maison, wearing a blue t-shirt … there is a pier here as well”
It was now a little clearer to me … I was at the wrong end of town, searching amongst the patrons near the main tourist wharf, NOT the commercial centre of town. The problem fixed, we were soon united with Carsten, but not before the four of us scanned and scrutinised the faces of many people from a discreet distance. Samantha in her boldness even approach a suitable looking man, sitting at a table by himself and asked “excuse me, are you Carsten?” At least, I think that’s what she asked, I was too embarrassed, looking the other way at the time.
At first chat, Carsten seemed as great bloke, confirming my initial phone-vibe. But don’t think I didn’t check him out some more, with additional probing questions … “do you like warm beer?” I gently inquired … “No, I only drink cold beer”, came the immediate response. And when Carsten offered a jar of peanut butter from his bag, I asked another revealing question “is it crunchy” … “yes, it is crunchy”, confirmed Carsten … And then, if there was any lingering doubt, after dinner, Carsten presented a boxed-bottle of Australian Penfolds Port as a gift for Chimere; for which we all instantly developed a sudden taste.
So it was confirmed … Carsten would be the third crew member to accompany John and me on the voyage south, starting in three day’s time. Carsten made himself comfortable in the cabin vacated by Matt, making sure NOT to bump his head – atop his 6’ 4” frame – on the ceiling, and other obstacle, aboard.
It would soon be time to start planning our voyage south – the weather, the route and the conditions in Fiordland given the devastation following recent rains – but for now it was time to relax, engage with our new team member and think about turning in.
Smooth seas, fair breeze and not quite a circumnavigation!
Rob Latimer
NZ2020 