Bluff (Ferry Wharf)
Friday 28 February 2020
The wind rapidly died off through the night, making for extremely still conditions; the main reason for us all sleeping in – we agreed.
Outside it was very sunny, showing early signs of the warm day ahead. Gazing out of the window through foggy glass and blurry eyes, I suddenly did a double-take at the sight of an enormous cruise ship beyond the point. We’d heard of them dropping anchor in these parts and here we had one, a short distance away. Certainly, they’d picked a good day for it – much better than yesterday
Saying good-bye to Stewart Island, we drove back across Foveaux Strait – “drove”, because there wasn’t enough wind to sail – past the Fancy Group of Islands, Dog Island and up the channel to Bluff. We’d timed our entry to coincide with the returning tide, the stillness of the surroundings, contrasting markedly with those on our arrival a week earlier. The in-coming tide had us racing past the channel markers at 9 knots, with the engine barely ticking over, making our final approach to the wharf something of a sideways affair until we were out of the main flow.
We’d made arrangements to access the same wharf-berth, behind the ferry and it was John who suggested that this time, we should make our turn BEFORE entering the berth. Thereby bringing our starboard side against the wharf (where there is no ladder-structure) and thereby making it easier for our eventual exit in a couple of day’s time
On arrival, John took command at the helm, executing a perfect 10 out of 10 docking manoeuvre, after which we relaxed, before visiting the local 4-Square grocery store for some butter and bread. It was then onto the Golden Age Tavern for some “lemonades” and a chance to reflect on our past week or so, in what was by now, really warm sunshine. And not just for Bluff, the absence of wind, and of course being on land, made it feel like a real summer’s day.
Carsten would also be leaving us tomorrow, bringing to an end our 12-day bro-mance. So this also gave us a chance to drink to the amazing, and most unexpected times we had shared. Our meeting being the result of a web-based sailing “dating site” so to speak, that matched prospective crew with boats. “How will you find the spare milk, honey and other things when I’m gone. How will you survive?” joked Carsten. We really had made a great team and it would be sad to be saying good-bye. But of course at the same time delighted that such a chance and positive encounter might have been possible.
Soon after, I followed John back to the local fishing co-op store – before closing time – to buy some more serious fish-catching gear. John was on first name terms with the store manager Denise, who had worked there 37 years, and as she explained had been given the task of establishing the retail facility way back in the day.
Denise had advised John on his earlier fishing purchases, including the selection of the 8-ounce sinkers, which were “very popular in these parts”. This time, we walked away with a lure called a “Tuna Slayer”, which we hoped would pay for itself many times over. Certainly, the gear was good at catching amateur fisher-folk like me and John. If only WE were fish!?
“Have you had any blue cod?” Denise asked, obviously knowing John better than I’d suspected. “Well we caught a blue cod, but it’s all eaten,” replied John.
“Well take that cod if you like”, reaching for a 500g frozen pack from the freezer (which at first glance looked like an ice cream chest) which had a small amount of ice inside the plastic packaging, but was still perfectly OK.
“Wow, thanks” we said together, joking as we departed about whether the fishing gear came with a money-back guarantee?!
While tidying up gear on Chimere’s foredeck, we started chatting with a bunch of blokes on the wharf who were waiting for the next ferry. They were off on a week-long, hunting “boy’s-own” adventure; an annual getaway, for which they appeared to be very well prepared.
“Where are you going to?” I asked … “To a hut in Chew Tobacco Bay, just south of Oban” came the reply.
Of course, we were familiar with Chew Tobacco Bay … a place we’d passed a couple of times as we’d travelled up and down the Stewart Island coast.
“Where are YOU guys off to?, they wanted to know. And after explaining our NZ2020 voyage, one chap, a man called Bill, expressed interest in joining our leg from Milford Sound to Wellington. This led to a tour aboard, discussion over the Fiordland charts and the exchange of contact details.
As Bill explained, he works at sea. And over the years, had served time on a range of vessels, including Fiordland Tour Boats, plus Antarctic and Pacific supply vessels. All his questions about Chimere certainly had the air of someone who had, “messed about in boats”, being about the … engine, fuel capacity, fuel consumption, generator etc etc. Our new-best-friend-Bill was also a student of history and shared my respect and devotion of the amazing efforts and accomplishments of Captain Cook, pointing out essential highlights when we visit Dusky Sound and elsewhere.
After 10 minutes we said good-bye as friends and hoped that things might work out in a couple of weeks’ time … because we are currently VERY keen to get an extra crew member for the 8-day voyage, starting on 14 March. (That’s actually a plug. If you or a friend want to join us, please sing out ASAP. Email me on the satphone at … msm1@clientsatmail.com.au and latimerfamily4@gmail.com but remember, no file attachments)
In other news, the annual Bluff oyster season starts in two days’ time – Sunday. And whilst we COULD go out there and catch a few bag-loads, we don’t want to show up the locals, preferring instead to be an eager customer.
In even bigger news … tomorrow, that’s the 29th February … my amazing home-support-wife Linda will be flying over from Australia, along with sons Matt and James, for a two-week sail and adventure around Fiordland. Actually joining us onboard!! To share, what I think will be the most spectacular, (scenically and historically) leg of the 4-month journey. (Also the most challenging leg, but I haven’t mentioned that part to Linda)
Smooth seas, fair breeze and Bluff Without the Bluster
Rob Latimer
POST CARDS FROM CARSTEN…
Each day, Carsten kept a diary and I was keen to read something of his perspective. Here’s a sample …
20. February – Lost in Translation – So einige Begriffe der Aussis und Kiwis verstehe ich erst auf Nachfrage:
Tr: I understand some of the terms of the Aussis and Kiwis only on request:
G’Day = Have a good day
Sträla = Australia
Morips = put more rpm = gebe mehr Gas = accelerate = go faster
Ansonsten ist das Leben hier an Bord aber total entspannt. Rob und John sind gut drauf und haben immer einen lustigen Spruch parat. Wir drei verstehen uns auf Anhieb gut.
Tr: Otherwise, life on board is totally relaxed. Rob and John are in a good mood and always have a funny saying ready. The three of us get on well straight away.
24. February
At world’s end – I’m wahrsten Sinne des Wortes. Oban, südlichster Ort Neuseelands, die Inselhauptstadt (Örtchen), und auch einziger Ort auf Stewart Island besteht aus ungefähr 15 Häusern, einem Pub, einem Supermarkt und dem obligatorischen Fish & Chips – Imbiss. Wir gehen den Nachmittag ruhig an und fahren am Abend mit dem Dinghi zum Strand und erkunden den Ort. Nach 5 Minuten sind wir fertig und sitzen im Pub…
Tr: At world’s end – Oban, max. south town in NZ, a very small town of about 15 houses, one pub, one supermarket and the typically fish & chips. We’ve a lazy afternoon. At evening we take the Dinghi to the beach and explore the town. After 5 minutes we’re done and go to the pub… .
21. February:
Roaring Fourtees – Segeln in dieser Region ist echt eine andere Nummer. Letzte Nacht war kaum an Schlaf zu denken, der Wind frischte am Nachmittag auf 25kn (6 Bft.) auf und Welle erreichte gut 2-3m. Segel reffen, halsen, Vorsegel ausbaumen, es gab ständig Arbeit. Mit Anbruch der Dunkelheit (und dann ist es hier wirklich dunkel) frischte der Wind weiter auf bis zu 27-30kn (7 Bft.) auf, wir rauschten mit 30% Fock und Reef 2 im Groß mit 8-9 kn durch den nächtlichen Südpazifik.
Tr: Roaring Forties – Sailing here is really hard stuff. Last night we had got not very much sleep, the wind came up to 25kn in the afternoon, we had to prepare for a windy night, reef the sails, connect the lifelines. After sunset, the wind increased to 27-30kn, with 30% jib and reef 2 in mainsail we had race on 8-9 kn through the nightly southpacific.
16. February:
Akaroa ist ein hübsches kleines Hafenörtchen südöstlich von Christchurch. Ich sitze mit meiner großen Segeltasche in einem netten Café am Ufer, angekommen per Taxi aus Christchurch. Gegen 18 Uhr läuft dann eine Segelyacht in die Bucht ein und geht vor Anker. Das wird wohl mein neues Zuhause für die nächsten 2 Wochen sein…
Tr: Akaroa is a nice small habourtown, southeast of Christchurch. I’m sitting with my big sailingbag in a really nice cafe at the harbour, arriving by taxi from Christchurch.
At 6pm a big white sailing yacht appears in the bay and set anchor. This is perhaps my new home for the next 2 weeks….
NZ2020 