Getting to Know Wellington

Chaffers Marina (Wellington, NZ)

Thursday 23 April 2020

Was it really only yesterday that we sailed down the west coast, around the corner, and up into Wellington.  From what I could see of today’s weather – mostly from inside my warm and cozy saloon through the small coach-house windows – I think we picked the best day to make the move.

The clock is ticking, as my departure on Monday looms ever closer, and so today – being an inside-kind-of -day – I thought I would sort out all the remaining food onboard – not such an easy task.

The problems arise in a few key areas … but it basically boils down to …

WHAT is onboard

WHERE has it been stored, and

HOW close are we to the “Best Before” date

Take canned bake beans and spaghetti, for example … our culinary conquests generally extend beyond using a simple can opener and saucepan to prepare the evening meal, but what do you do if the “Best Before” date is in the past?   Most people would say … “it depends” … how far “in the past” are we talking??  

Recording, sorting and neatly re-storing all the remaining food onboard was one of those tasks I had to build up to …
A place for everything … and recording where everything is located for next time.

Well, my opinion is that it’s OK, if you’re within a few years of it.  Other people may differ.  I mean, we have a real attachment to those cans.  Most have been to Vanuatu and back in 2017, and it wouldn’t be right to just throw them out, just because they are approaching the food-equivalent of retirement age … or palliative care perhaps …

What about Salada biscuits, or bags of pasta, flour, dried apricots, cans or peaches, or long-life milk … surely “Best Before” is only a guide … a legal manufacturing requirement  … and the “Taste Before” test also needs to be applied when opening – whenever that might finally be in the future.

Anyway, so the task of cataloguing every food item on board took a little while, with lunch deferred till mid afternoon – an omelette to use up the last of the eggs; I know THEY don’t last three years.  

Around this time, Keith gave me a … “how ya going” call … and in passing, mentioned that the other yacht we saw on the water yesterday might be in a “spot of bother” with the authorities. 

As we were rounding the southern coast yesterday, we spotted a yacht that looked like it had made its way across Cook Strait and was heading up into Wellington Harbour to another marina called Seaview; not such an imaginative name, when you think about it. 

Not one, but three mascots …

From what he’d heard, the owner of the yacht needed to get back to the North Island to get his business ready for opening next week; when the current Alert Level 4, drops down to Level 3.  HOWEVER, until we are actually in Level 3, his travel could not quite be classed as “essential”.  Whether it’s true or not, I heard the police were waiting for them when they tied up, and I don’t think even the marina were aware of their arrival.

I haven’t been bold and curious enough to ask the Harbour Master and Maritime Police whether they fielded any calls yesterday about our appearance out on the water … but I did hear that a local-residents-Facebook-page in the Porirua area – next to where we left from at Mana Marina – was abuzz with comments about “this yacht” … “in breach of regulations” etc etc etc … Again, from what I heard, indirectly through Adam, someone else who was aware of my situation and that legal authority had been granted for our travel, posted a comment to put everyone straight.

As they say … “you can run, but you can’t hide!” … as the French “intelligence” agents discovered to their detriment in 1985 when they were caught trying to secretly bomb the protest ship, Rainbow Warrior.

In chatting with Keith, he suggested I might like to walk along the sea-front towards Oriental Bay and past the swimming pool and the sea-baths, where our dads would have played as kids.  It might also have been the place where our respective dads spent time in the sea cadets back in the 1930s

Bill and Ted dressed in their Sea Cadet uniforms – Wellington Harbour was a cold, wet place to learn the ways of the sea … mostly by rowing old, heavy whale boats, in all kinds of weather ( I wore flares like that in the 1970s)

The task of food-sorting complete, I took Keith’s advice and armed with a rain jacket and iPhone, I headed off on foot to get some fresh air. 

One good tern deserves another … although this one tern on the end seems to be a bit on the outer …
This is the yacht club next to Chaffers …
Oriental Bay and Wellington in the distance

It was good to be out and about, and there were a surprising number of people on the move.  No cafes or shops open of course, but there was a lot of exercising taking place, dogs on leads, babies in pushers and cycling lycra.

Along the road there were the occasional historical information boards.  And at one point I got to read about Nancy Wake, the French Resistance agent, journalist and all-round war hero, known popularly as the “White Mouse”. As it turned out Nancy Wake … in keeping with other famous Aussies like Sam Neill, Russell Crowe and Tim Finn … was born in New Zealand (and just for the record Sam Neill was born in the UK) and would you believe … in this very street … Grass Street. 

Born in Grass Street, just across the road from this sign, Nancy Wake, known as the White Mouse, became the most decorated allied servicewoman from the second world war, with the Gestapo having a price on her head of 5 million francs

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nancy_Wake

Walking across the road and up the rather short, but steep Grass Street, I spied a set of steps which led, basically UP.  Thinking I still had a couple of hours of daylight I started the climb. 

On parts of the Southern Pathway, Mount Victoria walk, it was hard to believe you were so close to such a big city
Many of the houses appeared to be feats of engineering and architectual brilliance … with the constant threat of earthquake and severe weather events, it’s what you can’t see that’s of most importantce to the building’s longevity no doubt
Bill & Ted out the front of their family home, on Bengal St Khandallah, Wellington, around 1932.
The family home,on Bengal St Khandallah, started out as a bush section, (the house being extended by Bill and Ted’s dad) overlooking Wellington and Mout Victoria in the distance. It’s now a posh suburb full of foreign embassies and expensive homes
Like most places, Wellington of 2020 is hard to reconcile with the Wellington of the 1930s.

In Wellington Harbour, the 1855 earthquake (measuring 8.2) raised the seabed by about a metre-and-a-half, making existing jetties useless. By 1860 when this photograph looking south along Lambton Quay was taken, the damage to buildings caused by the earthquake had long since been repaired, but the jetties seem to have been little modified.
According to contemporary accounts, the 1855 earthquake had to be felt to be believed. “There is no describable or known phenomena [sic] to which it bears a resemblance and to the last day of my life I shall never forget the extraordinary thrill which ran through me on first experiencing it,” wrote Jones. “It was not one of fear, but accompanied by a sickening sensation and an idea of general instability and the insecurity of everything which we had ever before regarded as solid and immovable. The conviction of the insecurity of one’s possessions, the uncertainty of one’s best laid plans, the fundamental nature of the ties which connect us to the world.” The Day The Earth Shifted … https://www.nzgeo.com/stories/the-day-the-earth-shifted/

These steps naturally led to more steps, which then connected to a bush path, then more steps … all the while climbing higher and higher, till finally I came upon a sign.  The sign included a map of Mount Victoria, showing the lookout at the top, plus several lines indicating a range of walking and cycling paths.  Further on I walked along a road in the direction of the airport and Evans Bay, until a sign that pointed up and to the right … Mount Victoria Lookout.

It ended up being quite a long walk, after the initial stroll up Grass Street down at Oriental Bay
Someone’s already gone to the trouble of videoing the walk … so you don’t have to.

http://www.newzealandtravelinsider.com/day-walks/mount-victoria-wellington-walk-scenic-lookout.htm

As you can see from the photos, the views were commanding, with some of the houses I passed-by effectively built on cliffs, their garages supported on poles off the pavement with just fresh air underneath.

Mount Victoria lookout … the last time I was here was 1972, as a 12 year old, when we visited New Zealand as a family
Looking south from the Mount Victoria Lookout you can sea Evans Bay and the Wellington International Airport , plus the entrance to the Harbour in the distance … where we sailed just yesterday
There was even a pine forest … which would be a bit spooky at night …
Some of those steps … straight up and straight down

Coming down was a little bit easier, although locating the pedestrian access down to the seafront was at time a challenge, as the steps were often squeezed between buildings, with some steps being access to a house further down the slope

Getting closer to “home” … you can just see Chimere’s mast in the far marina, between the two multi-level buildings
“Make sure you’re home before it’s dark” … mum used to say
My temporary home, but Chimere’s permanent home … at least for the next 9 months

Back on board again, in the fading light, it was starting to feel like home. 

Smooth seas, fair breeze and getting to know Wellington

Rob Latimer

One thought on “Getting to Know Wellington

  1. Another great read. What on earth are we going to do now without your daily epistle to entertain and educate us. It’s become part of our daily routine and we will miss it very much. Safe travels and smooth flight tomorrow. Love Sandy and Dean

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