Land Adventure Continues

(Back at the) Bay of Islands Marina, Opua, North Island

Wednesday 30 June 2021

If yesterday we were down in the valley looking up, today it was the reverse … we were up on the ridgeline looking down.  

After a restful night’s sleep, our Land Adventure slipped into high gear today, or more correctly … low gear, 4WD … as John made good use of his son’s Toyota Landcruiser to transport us along some very slippery, muddy and steep tracks to the ridgeline of the bush-covered mountains we photographed yesterday. 

Linda and I felt quite spoilt, being allocated the main bedroom
One of John’s quirky additions … a re-enameled old bath, which he’s set on a bed of significant rocks … some local and some collected while working down in the South Island over 25 years ago

And I can safely use the word “mountain”, because John and Maryke’s place is located on Mountain Road … after today Linda and I can clearly see why.

We took this photo yesterday … showing a glimpse of the house and the back country ridges. Little did we know that today we’d be driving all over them

While we bumped and slid around the various tracks on the mountain, John took the opportunity to drop in on various (grown up) children – all living on the mountain – plying us with stories of the past 25 years. As we travelled along, it became clear that something of a “community” had been established.  Each family member building their own home and pursuing their personal dreams and visions for themselves and their family.

Early sun on the sole source of power for the property (other than a back-up generator which is rarely used)
John’s unique swimming pool … which is filled from a pipe that draws water from a stream up a nearby valley. When the weather’s warmer, water flows in one side, and out the other. John explained that it started out as a paddling pool, but as the kids grew he kept adding layers of rocks to make it deeper
John’s craftmanship and ingenuity on display – everything from worm farms to deal with the toilet waste, solar panels to supply power and water fed from their own catchment-sourced stream
John has also built a serious greenhouse that delivers produce all year round
Not just wild pigs and possums to kill … but goats as well
I really didn’t quite believe that we’d be driving up on the ridges – we were fortunate the rain stopped falling yesterday, otherwise the track would have been too wet and slippery

Numerous huts and shacks were dotted here and there, each surrounded by a small grassy clearing and each with its own backstory, as John explained … “That’s the hut Sam built and lived in for a while as a teenager … and Dominic built that one back in the day …”

At one point we made it onto another ridge, with a fence running along one side of the track and large patches of green grass extending in all directions, interspersed here and there with clumps of gauze and remaining bushy patches.  There was Dominic, one of John’s sons, with his small 4WD and trailer standing to one side sharpening his chainsaw. His loyal pigdog Ammo sunning himself in a reclined position nearby.

“Hello, good to meet you Dominic … we’ve heard a lot about you”  we said as we clambered out of the Landcruiser, “Yes, it’s good to finally meet you too” said Dom. 

Meanwhile, Ammo sniffed his greeting, tail wagging from side to side.  “So this is what a pigdog looks like?” I inquired.

“Yes, he’s pretty good as a pig dog.” Dominic explained … “but it took him a couple of years to catch on though.  I’d take him out hunting with the other dogs and he’d run along with them, and get involved, but never really knew what to do.  Then one day it finally clicked for him.”

Linda and I just hung on inside the Landcruiser while John negotiated the steep and slippery track, all the while pointing out local features and stories of the past 25 years
John, pigdog Ammo and son Dominic – up on top of a ridge
Nice pigdog, noice pigdog … you’ve had lunch today …?
Our tour guide John

“How does he catch a pig?” we asked innocently.  “Well Ammo is what you call a Holder.  He starts by chasing the pig, biting it on the heel.  This makes the pig stop and turn around.  Ammo then grabs the pig by the ear, and as the pig swings in circles to try and fling him off, he stays in close to the pig’s body so he doesn’t get stabbed by the razor sharp tusks.   Other dogs are Bailers.  They face the pig, keeping a short distance away, barking, and distracting it, till the hunter turns up.”     

Having come this far, we thought we’d dive in completely … “So do you shoot the pig, or …?”    “No, I just cut its throat with a knife.  Usually just stab it in the chest. In the heart”

I loved Dominic’s nonchalant emphasis on the word “just” … seemed like a pretty challenging, not to mention dangerous exercise to me!  But as John explained later … “Dom is pretty quick”

Dom is also very experienced, having killed his first pig when he was “just” thirteen.  “With a rock” … chimed in John … “Yes, I’m not very proud of that” replied Dom … “But I was with two of my cousins, they were about ten, and one tried to kill the pig with his fold out pocket knife.  The pig had fallen in a small hole and slashed my cousin with one of its tusks. In his arm, lucky it missed an artery.  Anyway, both my cousins ran away, and so I was left facing this pig and all I could think to do was grab a rock to kill it”

Every horse has a story
John the horse whisperer … this part Clydesdale horse is a favorite worker around the farm, used particularly by son Sam, for ploughing, amongst other things
Looking back towards the Hokianga Harbour and the town of Rawene
A bit of trick photography showing John surveying his domain

So, there you go … probably more than you ever wanted to know about pig hunting.  Maybe take up shooting possums, if the thought of stabbing wild, dangerous pigs leaves you a bit weak in the knees.

And if you’re looking for more tips on the art of killing … sorry, culling … pigs and possums, maybe contact the Te Ranga Primary School in the Bay of Plenty village of Makatu.  As reported in an earlier Post, they have an annual fundraiser … much like a chocolate drive, or selling shortbreads … but focused on killing the greatest number of pigs, or possums in a given period of time.   Dates for the 2021 competition are still to be announced, but check it out HERE    Some of the competition rules – for the pig division – are here for future reference …

Rules: BOARS ONLY. No barrows or sows.   All boars entered must be caught by the entrant only.  Minimum pig weight 25kgs.  All pigs must be wild. No farm reared or frozen pigs.  All pigs must be presented CLEAN GUTTED WITH TESTICLES LEFT IN.  All pigs must be weighed in one piece.  All pigs must be caught during competition hours. No late boars will be accepted.  No decomposing pigs accepted.  In the event of a tie, the pig weighed in first, claims the prize. All team members will receive brunch. NO FIREARMS are to be brought to the prize-giving at the Te Ranga Hall or on school grounds. Please lock all firearms away before coming to the event.  No alcohol to be consumed on or around school/hall grounds. This is a non-alcoholic competition.

Meanwhile, back on Mountain Road … the weather remained sunny and still, but with a definite, non-tropical chill in the air, as we returned to the house. And after a coffee and a snack, we started the one-hour drive back across the Northland peninsular to Opua and our floating home. 

It had been a great couple of days, and really good to actually see firsthand what we’d only ever heard about, from John … for the last 25 years or more.   

The Hokianga region really has a distinct vibe to it and I could now understand what John and his family could really see in the place.  No doubt a function of its remoteness, ruggedness and overall demographics.  It’s certainly a place where a sense of “community” is strong … not just amongst the 100-plus members of the Land family … but more broadly.  Also, where values of individuality and resilience are required and rewarded.

End of the day and the sun setting down the valley

We dined once more on fish and chips tonight, this time in Paihia … just a few kilometres from the marina.  And very nice they were too.  Tomorrow we are going out for a sail again, after the local marine electrician has removed a water pump for testing – plus a few other things.  With Chimere currently located here in Northland, it’s a great opportunity for John to share the “sailing experience” with family members – at least those children and grand children who are available.

On the topic of the “trans-Tasman Bubble” … at last report James and Eva will be arriving by plane on Tuesday next week.  That’s the 6th of July.  Their flights will take them from Canberra to Melbourne, then Auckland, before catching the small plane to Kerikeri.  Matt and Cathy, who have already been travelling in the North Island for a few days in a campervan with Cathy’s brother Doug and his wife Em, will be joining us aboard on Saturday. 

Having arrived in New Zealand just hours before the reintroduction of the latest COVID travel ban last week, Matt, Cathy, Doug and Em, were required to have a COVID19 test the other day and to also remain locked and isolated in their campervan for a day, waiting for the results.  (which turned out to be negative) All because they happened to be passing through the Melbourne airport at the same time as someone else, who was a confirmed “carrier”.   

As for my return voyage sailing crew … it’s still a work-in-progress – watch this space

Smooth seas, fair breeze and the land adventure continues

Rob Latimer

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