A Brief Mountaintop Experience

Bay Of Islands Marina, Opua, North Island

Tuesday 13 July 2021

After yesterday’s squally, wet performance, today dawned reasonably fine, with patches of blue and the promise of sun. 

The presence of two new crew, Matt and Sam, and the fact that Harm would be arriving later today – completing our gang of four – deepened my focus on the task ahead and the overall responsibility I felt that we really do need to get this show on the road soon.

Remains of the previous day’s rain is still in evidence

Whilst we’ve allowed ourselves a good amount of time to complete the voyage back to Australia, the clock really is ticking.  Meaning that unless we get the required permissions to enter Australia – specifically from either the Queensland or Victoria State Health authorities – there’s no point starting.  

On that topic, it’s been a frustrating journey sending off emails and online inquiries – hoping that one might hit the mark; given our seemingly unique situation. 

As of this morning, we were flexible about where we made landfall – Southport in Queensland, or Westernport in Victoria.  As for New South Wales … we gave up trying there a few days ago when Orange turned to Red.

According to Borderforce/Customs … they have no problems with us returning to Australia, but without the required State Health “Border Travel Permit” they are obliged to essentially call the police to cart us away on our arrival.

As an email from Vic Health pointed out …

Exemptions are only granted in special cases. If you try to enter Victoria by road without a valid permit, exemption or exception you will be turned away. If you attempt to enter via an airport or seaport without a valid permit, exemption or exception you will be fined $4957. Victorians will be required to quarantine at home, and others will be sent back.

And then someone from the NSW Customs …  who seemed to enjoy his job way too much … or perhaps was just trying to be helpful and informative, included the following in his email …

Please note that ABF facilitate the Migration and National Security aspect of your arrival only.

The Department of Agriculture, Water and the Environment facilitate the initial quarantine status of your international arrival.

NSW Police Force facilitate approvals to disembark vessels under the current The Public Health (COVID-19 Maritime Quarantine) Order (No 2) 2021. If permission is granted you will be required to enter Mandatory Hotel Quarantine.

No person can disembark at vessel that has arrived in NSW from an overseas port without the approval of the Commissioner of NSW Police.

Permission to disembark a vessel for a non-urgent medical requests are considered by NSW Health via the online portal https://nswhealth.service-now.com/community

Please note that persons AND the vessel will be subject to conditions under the Public Health (COVID-19 Maritime Quarantine) Order (No 2) 2021.

Travellers will be responsible for finding a location to secure their vessel during mandatory hotel quarantine, including the cost associated. Vessels cannot be accommodated at ABF Buoy or ABF Facility at Neutral Bay for the duration of mandatory hotel quarantine.

Please note that the Australia – New Zealand quarantine free travel bubble DOES NOT APPLY to the Maritime Environment.

Makes your Customs and Immigration path through an international airport look pretty routine!?

Several emails I received pointed me to the Vic Health COVID-19 Border Entry application website, and on two occasions – yesterday and today … I completed it fully only for my attempt to SUBMIT the form to be labelled “Unsuccessful – try again later”

I drew a blank with the online application process

It was around this time that I thought I needed to talk to someone … anyone … and no, not a psychologist or anger management therapist … but a real person sitting at a real desk.  I know that second bit is a bit much to ask these days, but at least a real person! 

My first attempt to call the COVID hotline got through to the message … “We are experiencing a high call demand currently…” which was followed soon after by an engaged signal …  At my next attempt I pressed all the required queue-buttons and after a relatively short wait was speaking to helpful-sounding Lisa.

I explained my situation … “on a yacht … in New Zealand … want to return to Australia … I’ve tried filling out the online form, but was rejected … you know what I mean??  We want to sail home , on a boat …  etc etc”

“Well, New Zealand is a Green Zone and so is Victoria, so there shouldn’t be a problem … when are you arriving”  Lisa asked

“It’s going to take us a couple of weeks, maybe 5 August to be sure”  I said

“I can fill out the form over the phone if that’s easier” replied Lisa

What followed was what you’d call a “mountain top” experience … based on the bureaucratic bush bashing of the past few days.  Lisa was slow and methodical, taking down all the required bits of information and then she actually emailed our Border Travel Permit one after the other – all four – there and then. Here’s mine …

Success … or at least that’s what we thought …

“Thank you so much Lisa!! That’s been very helpful” we exclaimed at the end of it all. 

After a short period of celebration around the saloon table, Matt, Sam and I then began working once more on preparations for departure – this time with a greater degree of purpose.

“So we could clear out, do the NZ customs formalities on Thursday, day after tomorrow” said Matt, reaching for his iPad to start re-working the weather routes and optimal track models

“We aim for Westernport, we’ve got our pieces of paper!!” I reflected out loud, feeling a great weight had been lifted off my shoulders.   “Just as simple as that … all we had to do was find Lisa” 

Work onboard now started to crank up a notch.  Sam finished off his sewing on the cockpit seams and zips and then helped me to lift the big dinghy onto the foredeck.  Matt continued to work on his weather-track modelling and all the while we anticipated the arrival of Harm from the Kerikeri airport – all the way from Melbourne.

Sam clocks on as Chimere’s seamstress
Drying out the storage boxes
Taking advantage of the brief bit of sunshine and warmth today to air the wet weather gear
After a couple of weeks, the large dinghy was nearly full of rainwater
The dirty water had left its mark on the dinghy … which Sam was eager to remove

Soon enough Harm was walking down the wharf, sailing bag over his shoulder, ready and eager to step aboard – and wearing a satisfied smile from ear to ear.   

Harm finally makes it into the country and now onboard
The gang of four !

“All to the saloon for a celebration!” came the cry and it was then that I once again checked my emails.  “Oh, that’s funny, an email from someone at Vic Health??” I thought.

Opening up the email, the words seemed to jump off the screen …

I have looked into the matter with Public Health and can confirm that you are subject to quarantine requirements upon arrival in Victoria.

Yachts and recreational vessels: All persons arriving into Victoria from overseas on yachts and recreational vessels are required to undertake quarantine at the port of arrival for a period of 14 days from arrival, unless an exemption has been granted. In most cases, a Detention Notice is issued by an AO and the individual is required to quarantine in hotel quarantine.

Maritime arrivals from a green zone country: Maritime arrivals are not currently part of the travel bubble with New Zealand. The Commonwealth government has restricted quarantine-free travel from New Zealand to air arrivals on quarantine-free flights at this time, when the travel bubble is in operation.

“Well, that’s a bit of a bother then isn’t it…” I thought, although the words might not have come out sounding quite like that.  The email continued …

I apologise that you have received incorrect information

So, from the “mountaintop” gazing at the glorious horizon, we were now back in the “valley”, wading through swamp water beating off crocodiles … but wait … was there a chance we might once more claw our way back up the North Face??????? … our good man from Vic Health “Compliance and Enforcement” threw us the following lifeline …  

Given your circumstances, I would encourage you to apply for an exemption to hotel quarantine at the link below: Given your situation does not neatly fit in the available categories, please use the ‘maritime crew’ option and then choose ‘off-signer’ Once you have submitted the request, please forward the request number to me or my colleague Andrew to follow up with Health Determinations on your behalf. 

I am confident an exemption will be granted upon application.

Trust me, I had the suggested online application for a hotel quarantine exemption completed in record time.

And as we all agreed around the saloon table … when someone in authority actually types the word “apology” AND says they are “confident an exemption will be granted” … you can almost take it to the bank.  We hope to cash that particular cheque ASAP.  Stay tuned for the next instalment!

Harm is a good man with food … so he’s naturally been elected chairman of the Chimere Catering and Provisioning Sub-Committee
Matt feigns bafflement over his weather and routing computer modelling

As for tomorrow … our list of tasks include … buying stores, stowing and tying down , filling up the fuel tanks and going through a bit of vessel familiarisation with the lads.  Plus some more studying of the weather forecasts and optimal routes for the expected voyage ahead – direct to Westernport in Victoria,.  

Smooth seas, fair breeze and a brief mountaintop experience

Rob Latimer

The Crew Starts to Gather

Bay Of Islands Marina, Opua, North Island

Monday 12 July 2021

It rained all day today.  And even when it wasn’t actually raining, it was drizzling, with the wind blowing through at a great rate of knots – literally … lots of knots.  So much so that we were heeling over from time to time like we were pointing to windward.

As arranged last week, my electrical man Chris turned up around 8:30 to finish the job with the two saltwater pumps, and on that front, I can safely say that the day was a raging success.   I now have a fully functioning reverse cycle air conditioning system which is pumping out hot air from two vents in the saloon as I type … working its way to a room, or cabin, temperature of 25 degrees – toasty!

One of the pumps fitted perfectly, with the old and new mounts match up to within a millimetre, the other one needed a new hole to be drilled in the mount bracket
Marine electrician Chris weaving his magic

I also have the water-maker back up and running, with the installation of its Onga pump – in the underfloor confines of the forward corridor between the two toilets – turning out to be a little easier than I at first thought; despite the new mounts not lining up with the old.  Not that I had anything to do with it. 

Despite Chris’s bear-like proportions he can reach and twist into the most challenging of places and even when he can’t actually see what he was doing, he fiddled and contorted with his seemingly dislocated wrists to undo, or do-up, or relocate, or drill, this or that.

It rained all day!
When it wasn’t raining it was drizzling
Make a bloke homesick for Melbourne and the Yarra River

While he was here, Chris also gave me some pointers on the bilge pump – the thing that is supposed to turn on and pump water overboard if too much of it happens to enter by mistake – which was blowing fuses; not working essentially.  And even I know it’s a bad idea to keep putting in bigger, more powerful fuses. 

In the end, I unscrewed the face-plate off the pump to reveal the impeller, which after 18 months, or so, of inaction (thankfully) had got stuck.  Anyway, after a fiddle and a poke, it was back to working normally again.  Whilst overuse can wear things out, machinery on boats really is a case of … “use it or lose it”.

Full wet weather gear just to walk half a kilometre to the local store to buy a loaf of bread

But the big news today must surely be the arrival of our two new crew members … Matt and Sam.   Both had flown in to Auckland from Melbourne, and then caught the bus for the 5 hour trip north to Opua. 

After initial uncertainty, on account of having spent some time recently in Queensland, our next and final crew member, Harm, looks set to fly over from Melbourne tomorrow, landing at Kerikeri either around 5:00pm, or 8:30pm – depending on the schedule. 

Once Harm is aboard we’ll be a “full complement”

Sam and Matt – settling in and happy to be aboard.

On the practical sailing side of things, it’s starting to come together. 

What is exercising most of my thinking at the moment, however, is obtaining a quarantine-free Travel Exemption from either the Queensland or Victorian Health departments, based on the facts of our situation, common sense and the existence of the so-called, trans-Tasman Travel Bubble; which, unbeknown to me, seems to ONLY relate to “air travel”.

Watch this space!

Smooth seas, fair breeze and the crew starts to gather

Rob Latimer

Starting to Feel a Bit Like Groundhog Day

Bay Of Islands Marina, Opua, North Island

Sunday 11 July 2021

It’s been a rainy, cold, blowy kind of day – all day, and it’s forecast for tomorrow as well.  But it’s a great day to be tied up in a marina berth with the heater on.

Early morning view down onto “F Row” from the marina berth holders “Lounge”
Some international sailors, a few with families, have been here for over a year – unable to leave because all other countries are closed to arrivals

Tomorrow’s boating forecast from the MetService – for the Bay of Islands – reads as follows:

Gale warning: Nearby coastal warnings: Storm warning for Cape Brett

Monday: Easterly 30 knots gusting 40 knots, rising to 35 knots gusting 45 knots this morning. Rising to southeast 40 knots gusting 50 knots this afternoon, and to southerly 45 knots gusting 55 knots this evening. Sea becoming high this evening. Poor visibility in periods of rain. Easterly swell 2 metres, rising to 3 metres.

It’s what we call “Nasty” … or a tad … “Unpleasant” … to be avoided at all costs.

You’ll notice in the forecast, there are two words that stand out … “Gale” and “Storm” … (not to be confused with the types you’d meet at a nightclub) well, you might be interested to know that these derive from what’s known as the “Beaufort Scale” … devised over 200 years ago by someone called … surprise surprise … Beaufort … Capt Francis Beaufort, Royal Navy.  

It started out as a 0-12 scale that referenced the effect of various strengths of wind on the sails of a frigate; and its ability to make way.  It was only later, when steam powered vessels overtook sail, that it was altered to reflect the effect of the wind on sea state.     

Returning to Gale and Storm … a “Moderate Gale” kicks in at around 28 knots of breeze, a “Fresh Gale” starts at 34 knots and a “Severe Gale” is when the wind exceeds 41 knots.  “Storm Force” winds start at 48 knots, or a rating of 10 on the Beaufort Scale.  Above this you have “Violent Storm” in the 56-63 knot category and from here we move into “Hurricane” territory where seas can reach over 14 metres. 

A very useful measure of wind speed – The Beaufort Scale

And of course, “knots” refers to a nautical mile per hour, which is around 1.85km/h, so when someone suggests the wind is so strong it’s off the scale … they are probably exaggerating … but if not, then it’s the Beaufort Scale they are inadvertently referring to.  

I’ve seen a few weather maps over the years, but nothing like this … looks like the lightning bolt of weather hitting the west coast of the South Island needs the word “Ka-Pow” at the yellow point of impact for maximum effect.

Given the poor weather, I had no excuses for not continuing with “the paperwork” … with all the required notifications and applications at least lodged and in the system.  But just when you thought it was safe to sail into an “Orange Zone”, Victoria closes the border on NSW. 

That’s ALL of the state of NSW – not just the red bits, but all of it, including Coffs Harbour and Eden … the Ports of Entry I was considering.  This means that, as things currently stand, even if I could enter NSW from New Zealand, I wouldn’t be allowed to enter Victoria.

Hard to plan anything when this keeps happening …

My immediate thought was to revise my plan and sail directly to Westernport, Victoria … then on reflection, with most of Queensland still “Green” I thought “what about Southport” … near Surfers Paradise – bit warmer up that way too!

Next step, apply for a “Queensland Travel Declaration”, from the Health Department … no problems, there’s an online form – simples!

One of the first questions … Date of arrival? (Must be within 3 days)   Of course no date beyond three days would be accepted and so the online form ended there. 

Arriving from New Zealand? … no problems. Question … Are you arriving on a quarantine free flight (green flight) from New Zealand?   Arrr???  I’m not arriving by plane … end of questionnaire …

So, my latest strategy is to make a general online inquiry … with the words “URGENT ASSISTANCE REQUIRED” at the top … and hopefully it finds its way onto the right desk in a timely manner.

In scrolling through the Health Department website, I was briefly excited when I saw … “Maritime Arrivals – Protocols” … but it only related to commercial shipping crews and their usual employment movements on and off ships.

Maybe I’ll have something more positive to report tomorrow?!  But at the moment I’m having flashbacks to April last year when I was trying against all odds to find a crew to sail home … it’s starting to feel like Groundhog Day … hopefully not.

On the crew front … my first crew member, Matt – from Melbourne – flew into Auckland this afternoon and in his own words  “missed the bus north to Opua by 1 minute!!”  Consequently, he has found himself overnight accommodation and will catch the next bus up tomorrow. 

Also on that very same bus (to Opua) will be the second crew member, Sam – flying in from Melbourne – who hopefully doesn’t miss catching the bus!  

The third crew member, Harm – also from Melbourne – is booked to fly over on Tuesday … but there remains doubt about eligibility etc, given he was in parts of Queensland in the past few weeks.  Harm is remaining as optimistic as possible, but it would be a sad irony if he suffers significant  delays – and maybe can’t join us – because he signed up for the voyage way back in April … and actually found the other two crew members, Matt and Sam for me!

Meanwhile life plods on … and at the moment, I’m sitting here all by myself, the rain pelting down on the coach house roof, the howl of the wind in the rigging – of Chimere and the other yachts in the vicinity – rising and falling in pitch.

As it turns out, Linda could see that with crew arriving over the next few days (hopefully) and so many preparation tasks needing to be done, it was better for her to be out of the way.  

Not too far out of the way … she has rented a small studio unit in nearby Paihia, which she found on AirB&B.  Would you believe, the very same property that Matt and Cathy found to spend one-night last week.  Quite a coincidence given the number of properties on offer.        

Linda steps ashore for a few days to allow Chimere to be readied for sea and also to get over her recent asthma episode so as to be able to fly home to Melbourne
Captain and his First Mate …

When I mentioned to my cousin from Wellington that Linda had moved ashore for three nights, he jokingly asked … “what, she’s got sick of being with you already?” … well, no, that’s not the case … Linda is just being considerate … and whilst she’s feeling much better, she just wants to be over her asthma issues when it’s time to fly home; maybe Wednesday.

It’s funny how things work out … Linda and I were anguishing earlier today over how she would get from here to Paihia and how we would make do with the remaining Kiwi bank notes left in our wallets.  (not everyone here accepts a credit card)

Having booked two nights at the apartment, Linda decided to make it three, and called the host, Corrine.  “What time were you coming?” Corrine asked … “About 3 o’clock” replied Linda … to which Corrine replied … “Well, my husband Robert will be in Opua around 3:00, he can pick you up.”  

As it turned out, I could even make payment using my brand new … New Zealand Westpac Bank Account – which I opened in Tauranga.  It was my first transaction. 

The online reviews for the accommodation seem very accurate, Corrine is a very helpful and thoughtful host … not to mention discerning and intelligent for marrying a man named Robert!  Who, incidentally has a business minding and maintaining boats for absent owners … of which there are many given the current COVID situation.   

Unfortunately, I don’t have many photos today.  It was one of those fill-in days you just gotta have every now and then  

Smooth seas, fair breeze and starting to feel a bit like Groundhog Day

Rob Latimer

Setting Sights on Home

Bay Of Islands Marina, Opua, North Island

Saturday 10 July 2021

It was an early, not to mention sad, start to the day, with the inevitable departure … first of Matt and Cathy, then James and Eva.

Matt and Cathy’s taxi arrived at 5:00am for the ride to the Kerikeri airport and from there by plane onto Melbourne via Auckland.  It seemed such a “normal” travel itinerary, just for a minute there was a sensation that this COVID “situation” was a thing of the past.  But I suppose if you believe that then you truly ARE in a bubble.

Still dark at 5:00am when Matt and Cathy caught their taxi … but no sooner had they gone than they were sending us a text to say the had arrived
The taxi really wasn’t that fast … more a function of the slow camera shutter speed

Another taxi arrived around 7:15am to take James and Eva off, with them heading off to Paihia, and from there by bus to Auckland, where they hired a car for a few day’s touring

Bit more light at 7:15am
Off the short distance down the road to Paihia

Linda, who was supposed to head back to Australia with Matt and Cathy today, has remained aboard, a least until tomorrow.  Still feeling unwell, but on the improve, Linda deferred her flight till sometime next week.  Until then she will head ashore for a couple of nights – to a Paihia AirB&B establishment – to enable me and my (hopefully) arriving crew, to focus on the work ahead. 

This includes getting Chimere ready for sea, but also understanding and then negotiating, the myriad of ever-changing COVID rules and regulations    

As a simple example … I received this from the Australian Borderforce today …

“Green lane travel arrangements between Australia and New Zealand currently only apply to air arrivals. As Australian citizens you do not require an ABF exemption to enter Australia, but you will still require an exemption from State Health authorities to avoid the 14 days quarantine requirement upon arrival in Australia”.

If only obtaining an exemption from “State Health authorities” was that easy?!  It might be, if you are travelling an a commercial jet, into a recognised airport – but given there aren’t many people arriving in Australia on private yachts, even if it is from our “bubble-buddies” New Zealand, I’m suspecting I fall into the “too hard” basket.  But, ever hopeful, I’m more than happy to be proved wrong.   

Having fallen foul of the online Exemption Application form on one particular State’s health department website, I made an online … “We Value Your Inquiry” … inquiry, and received the confirmation message back … “Thanks for your enquiry Robert – we’ll be back to you within a week” … wouldn’t ask them to send me an ambulance that’s for sure.

I’m keen to give the “webchat” a go …

Suffice to say, much of today was spent completing and lodging departure documents for the New Zealand Customs, arrival forms for the Australian Borderforce and a “Blue Water” insurance application for the boat’s insurer.   Each multi-page document required me to write much the same details concerning the vessel and crew members etc etc etc, so now my big focus is on getting an answer from the Health Departments in both NSW and Victoria, because without that … in particular the one for NSW, it’s hardly worth setting sail

My preference would be to stop briefly at Lord Howe Island on the way home and from there travel onto Coffs Harbour, or Eden in order to complete the clearance formalities. After that, to THEN proceed to Westernport in Victoria. 

All sounds very simple, but, again, there seems to be something about arriving on a boat.  Better to arrive with 200 others, all crammed in a plane for 3 hours, breathing the same air – albeit filtered – than to arrive with three others after spending 7-10 days exposed to the sea air; essentially isolated from the world and hopefully alive and fighting fit.

You might have come across this comedian, Jimmy Rees … well worth a look … at the moment I’m starting to feel like I could write a script for his next skit …

Australia Right Now!!

‘The Guy Who Decides COVID Restrictions’  

The Guy Who Decides Covid Restrictions’ *PART 2*

I’m sure there’ll be more events to record tomorrow … at the moment I need to lie down before I fall down … getting up at 4:30 this morning to see Matt and Cath off is starting to take its toll

Starting to look seriously at weather forecasts … this what it’s supposed to be like next Saturday – rather BAD for heading over the top
Monday week, things are looking much nicer for jumping off …

Smooth seas, fair breeze and setting sights on home

Rob Latimer

Where Did Those Three Days Go?

Bay Of Islands Marina, Opua, North Island

Friday 9 July 2021

Today’s Post WAS going to be called … “A Comedy of Errors” … or maybe, “Swimming Spectacle” … but there are more important reasons to remember today than Robert (me) … losing not one, but TWO pairs of prescription glasses overboard.

Last breakfast together at the Robertson Island anchorage, James offers to do everyone bacon and eggs!

The first from an accidental ”drop” over the stern while loading the dinghy, the second from me diving out of the dinghy, immediately after, to save the first … while wearing my glasses … naturally, I was wearing my glasses because I wear them every waking minute of the day to correct permanent double vision – except when I’m reading, or at the computer, and then I need the first pair which I was diving to retrieve.

My “dive” was purely spontaneous … while receiving bags, shoes and goodies from above in preparation for all six of us motoring to shore, I saw my glasses case plummet from above into the water and immediately start to sink.  By the time I reached the sinking case, which by now had opened on account of a faulty hinge, I was at least a metre under the water, eyes wide-open, completely submerged, flailing desperately with my arms to reach this essential piece of kit – it was like a scene out of a bad movie.

Returning to the surface, clutching the glasses case triumphantly in my right hand, elation soon turned to – whatever the opposite of elation is – when I realised, not only was the glasses case empty, but the world was suddenly blurred and my double vision had returned – oh dear, I’ve ALSO lost my main pair of glasses!!

Oh, did I mention that I was dressed in FULL wet weather gear – including over-pants, jacket, seaboots and lifejacket – totally compliant this guy – plus all the clothes I was wearing underneath – hate to dispel THAT rumour.

Let’s just say, it was not a highlight of the voyage so far.  And yes, I might have used some naughty words that most people might excuse, given the circumstances … particularly those who rely on prescription glasses to function like a useful human being each day.

Fortunately, I have an old pair of multifocal glasses in my bag, which at least corrects the double vision, and now I wear an additional pair of 1.5x Readers, (which I bought “cheaply” from a local pharmacy for a mere $29.95??!!) simultaneously … for up-close work – like now when I’m at the computer typing. Linda offered to take a photo of me wearing two pairs of glasses, which apparently looks a bit funny … but I declined. I must still be going through the grieving process?!

Well, that’s a lot of words devoted to a topic I’d rather forget, maybe I’ll consider it therapy. 

To perhaps fill in a few gaps in the narrative … and linking in with the title of today’s blog … we were in the process of drawing the curtain on three blissful days of unique fun, adventuring and togetherness.  Three days that seemed to have flown … as they do … but three days in which we had packed in as much as we possibly could.   

Following Eva ashore, Matt and Cathy prepare to take the plunge
In summer, it would be 15 degrees warmer, but full of boats and holidaymakers … here we had it all to ourselves
It was a lazy morning – our last one together on this adventure
Who pulled the plug …?
These are great birds … Sooty Oyster Catchers … they sing and dance to each other, sometimes they argue, but nearly always in pairs … a real death do us part arrangement
Just a time to soak it in
OK, you know when you are dozing off, and you know there’s activity going on somewhere around you, but you can’t be bothered opening your eyes … well here’s such a moment … and she had a camera …
Have I mentioned that going to sea (not on a P&O cruise liner) can be a good weight loss program …?
Linda putting on a smile for the camera despite feeling rather “poorly” as a result of asthma and congestion
I think I must have been asleep still on the beach

The weather had just been so kind.  After a lazy start to the day this morning at the Robertson Island anchorage where Matt, Cathy, Eva and James went for a swim – even swimming to shore – we were now anchored off the main town of Paihia; just an hour’s sail away.

The reason was because Linda had been suffering a bit more than normal from asthma and congestion, over the past day or so, and wanted to see a doctor.  The doctor’s appointment was at 2:50pm, and the “spectacle incident” off the back of the boat occurred when we were all preparing to go ashore … in plenty of time …

Consequently, our “spare time” largely evaporated in the time it took me to totally disrobe, dry off and then re-dress.

My kind of sailing wear tartan “leisure wear” (or are they pajamas) and kangaroo skin slippers
They can still see eye-to-eye
Like my wife … she looks good from (almost) any angle …
Anchoring … 50% experience, 50% equipment … and the rest is just good luck
Oh, we haven’t lifted the anchor yet …
Saying farewell to another piece of paradise here in the Bay of Islands
You can tell by our clothing, it’s still winter, but Chimere’s enclosed cockpit plus a bunch of rugs, are more than a match for the cold temperatures

Once at the Paihia wharf, everyone piled out of the dinghy, leaving their life jackets and full wet weather kit with me in the dinghy to return to Chimere.  Once there, I received a call on my phone from Matt to say … “There’s a dive shop here at the wharf and the owner said he’d be happy to come out and have a go at looking for the glasses”   

Here was a glimmer of hope.  The sun was still shining, the sea was flat, we were in just 5 metres of water … how hard could it be to find a couple of pairs of glasses?!  Apart from the fact that more than an hour’s tidal flow had swung us on our anchor away from where we were when the “incident” occurred.

But still, it was worth a try.  So, I raced back in to the wharf and soon after, was transporting an extremely helpful diver-man-Craig, out to the “scene”.  And I’d love to say that Craig found the glasses in just 15 minutes … but sadly, despite his best efforts, scanning a large arch of the sea floor while I watched his bubbles and orange float from above, there was no happy ending.  But at least we’d given it a try and I felt good slipping him $100 as we parted, which he felt unworthy to receive on account of being unsuccessful.

Ready for action, Diver Craig – owner of the local dive store. He not only agreed to have a go at looking for my two pairs of prescription glasses – dropped off the stern of Chimere – but closed his store so he could race home to get his gear. If you want to dive, then check them out HERE
Barely any rain and we get a rainbow
That’s Craig in the water with his orange float looking for my glasses. I briefly thought that the rainbow might have been a sign of impending success … but sadly, no.
Don’t need much to make a rainbow.
Craig tried as hard as he could to find my glasses,

On the medical front, Linda is much improved after her visit to the doctor – which included the usual stick-up-the-nose-and-mouth (maybe the other way around) COVID test, plus some steroid medications … so ALL drug testing has just ceased onboard.

The long and the short of it is that Linda will NOT be flying home to Melbourne tomorrow with Matt and Cathy.  She will remain – with me – possibly rebooking her flights for Sunday or Monday … after the school holiday rush is over.

So, Matt and Cathy get a taxi at 5:00am tomorrow – driven by Cameron… Margaret’s husband I think – and James and Eva leave us soon after, around 7:00am, catching a taxi around to Paihia.  From there they catch a bus to Auckland, where they’ll rent a car to do some touring for the following 5-6 days – yes to Hobbiton (the second time for Eva)

So, it’s all go here, or was.

They say good times never last.  Which is no doubt true.  Right now though, I’m choosing to focus on the fact that the good times actually managed to occur at all.  Almost in spite of the current, dare I say “unprecedented” times – sorry, I just had to.  Looking back, this family bonding time  in the Bay of Islands was supposed to take place in around May last year – more than 12 months ago. 

It was starting to get dark by the time we were heading home … the final rays of the day playing with this lonely cloud formation
Now this is how seagulls should behave at night … quiet, respectful, reflective … they could teach those Tauranga seagulls a thing about manners
Our chart plotter track
Most of the black lines (NOT the really squiggly lines) show our movements in, around and across the Bay of Islands
Last dinner together tonight

Then, with the trans-Tasman “bubble” opening, then closing, then being suspended, then being held ajar for selected Australian States, then suspended again, then each Australian State (once again) not allowing travel across borders … it’s truly amazing that Linda, Matt, Cathy, James and Eva  – simply on account of them coming from Canberra and Melbourne (and not nearly any other place in Australia at the moment) – could come over … and travel home again … although that particular hurdle hasn’t fully been got over yet!

It’s been a very active three days, with all six of us sailing and adventuring together … but by breakfast tomorrow it’ll be as “quiet as” … bro.    And soon after that, very soon after, my thoughts will need to focus almost entirely on preparations for the voyage home – I hopefully have three crew member flying in from Australia in two days – but right now, that can wait.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and where did those three days go?

Rob Latimer

In Search of 4 Bars

Robertson Island (Motuarohia Island), Bay of Islands Marina, North Island

Thursday 8 July 2021

It really was a comfortable anchorage last night.  So comfortable in fact that by around 8:00am I was the only one awake and ready for action. 

Being something of a morning routine, I turned on the generator around 7:00am, which is a reasonably quiet piece of equipment, but rather than indicate to the sleepyheads that it might be time to get up and face the day, I suspect its gentle puurrring might have lulled everyone back to slumber.

Everything pointed to a magical day afloat.  The sky was clear, the seas were calm and the 15kt forecasted sou’wester was going to be a friend for most of our planned travels.

And the plan – at least in my mind – was to head off as early as possible, in a north east direction, to Cape Brett and the ‘famous’ hole in the rock … the authorised, official hole in the rock, not to be confused with all the others we’d seen along the way.

In the end it was Linda who was out of her cabin first helping on the wheel and in charge of the engine, as I attended to the anchor and chain up front.

It must have been the sound of the main engine, or maybe me hoisting the mainsail, or perhaps the movement of the boat gently gliding through the water, but pretty soon everyone made an appearance and were getting stuck into their chosen breakfast options. All the while, the morning sun blazed in our faces

The morning sun seemed a lot brighter than this photo portrays

Getting away from our anchorage reasonably early meant that by 10:00am we had covered the 8 miles to Cape Brett with plenty of time to soak up the rugged vibe of the place – in absolutely perfect conditions – and make it back to our chosen lunch spot in Oke Bay.

Piercy Island, aka Motukokaka Island … it’s the official “Hole in the Rock” rock…
Cape Brett lighthouse and the keepers old house
In just a short time it was cloudy and drizzly again … but not for long
Five minutes later the sky was clear
Da boyz and da rock
OK, here’s the hole … we sized it up and we felt Chimere was too wide to get through
Cathy and Matt soak up the vibe
Matt, Eva, Cathy and Matt try to ignore how close we were getting to the rocky cliff
Got to be some fish down there! Get out the reel …
Linda meets Cape Brett
You can’t get this close on many days of the year
One last look before we go
The run back to Oke Bay was into the SW wind, but the sun was still shining. Cathy rugs up

Oke Bay offered shelter from the south west breeze, plus a tropical-looking sea that bordered on turquois in colour.  It’s here that some might have been tempted to go for a swim, but instead, Matt, Cathy, James, Eva and I explored ashore – discovering that on the other side of the ridge there were houses, and roads … and even a cemetery that would have to have the best views in the whole region!

Going ashore to explore at Oke Bay
We first checked out the rocky coast, then landed on the beach
The water was very inviting, almost turquois in colour
Always someone who didn’t put on their gumboots
Oke Bay on a good day
Rob, James and Matt overlooking Oke Bay and Chimere at anchor – with Linda aboard – below
Hard to find a cemetery with a better view than this …

Around mid-afternoon, after some sleeping and eating – and deciding that today was not the day to go for a swim – we up-anchored and headed around the point and past Hat Island again to find a suitable anchorage for the night. 

Whilst the sea was generally flat, the wind had picked up, and so our choices were somewhat narrowed.  However, we found a lovely spot in Urupukapuka Bay, surrounded by brilliant green grassy hills which actually had a fair number of sheep dotted here and there – but they seemed the only “Baas” we could find.

All seemed perfect, much like paradise … but as we discovered the other day, paradise does not have internet … and neither did this beautiful bay.  I hate to say it, but the absence of internet and phone coverage has become a deal breaker, and so we up-anchored and began our search for an alternative anchorage.

As it turned out, the search was more difficult than we’d anticipated, with the anchor nearly dropped in two places and actually dropped in three – only to be retrieved again after it seemed impossible to conduct a simple web-search, or send an email. 

The last move was the most difficult, because the sun had already gone down, light was fading, and our choices seemed to be closing.  The solution seemed to be to head back to where we’d come the day before, to Robertson Island, where we knew coverage was good.

It was a race back to our final anchorage-choice before darkness fell. We failed, but the chartplotter meant we could do the last mile on instruments alone

In the end it was dark by the time we dropped anchor, but as it’s turned out, this is a pretty good place to be.   

James whipped up a lovely dinner tonight and after all our travels, plus lots of sea air, everyone was keen to retire to their bunks.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and in search of 4 bars

Rob Latimer

PS I’ll have to post the photos tomorrow. The internet coverage here is not as good as I’d hoped – at least not sufficient to upload photos

Precious Moments

Otaio Bay, Urupukapuka Island, Bay of Islands Marina, North Island

Wednesday 7 July 2021

After the excitement of finally arriving, despite the forces against it, our latest arrivals – James and Eva – crept off to their cabin around 11:00pm last night, closely followed by everyone else; not to James and Eva’s cabin you understand, but to their respective bunks.  

The wind outside was really howling and after an hour or two, it started pouring with rain, which seemed to keep up till morning.

For ventilation, and who knows … a quick escape if necessary … each cabin has a hatch, opening up on the deck.  At night, we mostly sleep with the hatch handle on the first notch.  Not totally sealed down against a breaking sea, but slightly ajar to let in some air.  Well, last night the rain was so hard it seemed to find its way through the tiny crack and onto our faces as we slept – enough to have us sealing the hatch right down.

By morning the wind had pretty much blown itself out, but drizzle persisted and as our gallant crew began to stir in their bunks I worked my way through the list of “departure tasks” I’d made the night before … top up the water tanks, put the bag of snorkel gear back on Chimere from where it’s been stored in the large dinghy, (which we’ve been leaving tied in our berth rather than have it clutter the foredeck) pump diesel up from one of the four onboard storage tank into the “day tank”, from where the engine (and generator) draw their supply and remove most of the mooring lines and replace them with two simple lines, fore and aft, that can be easily retrieved as we back out of the berth.

Heading away from the marina it was grey and drizzly, but calm
A lot of rain had fallen through the night
The rain and drizzle finally began to clear

By 8:30am there was still very little action onboard, and so there was nothing for it but to start the engine.  I’ve found in the past that this seems to focus people’s attention, because everyone knows the sound of the engine … and it wouldn’t be turned on if we weren’t going somewhere … which naturally prompts the question in people’s minds … “are we going somewhere?” …

Pretty soon, Matt and James were on the scene to ease out and retrieve the bow and stern lines, as we slid out of our berth, text book style, heading out into the grey, misty soup of the morning.

Breakfast was served up as each person emerged and by 9:00am the Opua wharf was well astern.  It was a flat, dead calm morning, with the threatening clouds of the night before receding on the horizon.

Breakfast on the go

Beyond the confines of the harbour – that lies between the towns of Opua, Paihia and Russell, the wind gathered and the swell whipped up from the last day’s blow caused us to rise and fall on our way to our first stop for the day – Robertson Island …

“That’s you”, said Eva, pointing to James …

“What??” I inquired 

“Robertson … Robert’s-son”, she persisted … “Ohhh … I get it … very good … never thought of that before” I said.

“Has it got another name?”  asked Eva … “arr yes … Motuarohia Island, I see” said Eva, looking at the chart plotter

Having stopped in here just the other day, Linda and I were keen to show the others.  It really is an amazing island, combining the high peak of the historic Maori Pa, the direct connection with Captain Cook who anchored here in 1769, not to mention the amazing rock formations, lagoon and narrow isthmus.

Fortunately, the sea was calm in the shelter of the bay, despite the onshore breeze and whilst Linda remained aboard to guard the fort, I took Matt, Cathy, James and Eva ashore to do some exploring.

Amazing Robertson Island
Looking down from the island heights
This bird and its mate stuck around the boat like seagulls
James keeping us between a rock and a hard place

By noon we were back on board boiling the kettle, with James at the helm as we lifted the anchor and headed out to explore some more islands.

This took us out through the narrow Okahu Passage and then back through the equally narrow Waewaetorea Passage, the 2-3 metre swell keeping James on his toes as he maintained a track in the deepest middle sections  

What you see on the chat plotter…
What you see out the front windscreen
Stunning rock formations
Safely through the passage
Looks chilly doesn’t it?

We were looking for an anchorage that was NOT impacted by the swell – we were sick of the pesky rolls – plus we wanted a remote bay where the south west wind blew offshore … AND where internet and phone connectivity was at least a 3-bar quality. Talk about picky. 

In the end we scored a solid 2 out of 3, having to compromise on the offshore wind bit.  Our final choice was Otaio Bay, on the western side of Urupukapuka Island where we found a sandy bottom in about 4 metres of water.  The wind blew straight into the bay, but there was no swell, only a small chop that was barely noticeable, plus 4G communications!   How good is this kids!?

There was an onshore wind, but our anchorage was calm and good holding ground … plus excellent internet coverage
One very brave bird … the last one to fly away as we approached
Just landed and ready to explore!
The grassy track led to a grassy ridge
The setting sun finally came out from behind these clouds
The cold yellow wash of the winter sun

By now it was past 2:00pm and after some snacks, and some lying around, it was finally decided to run ashore again to stretch our legs and do some more exploring.  James and Linda remained aboard to catch up on some sleep – plus Linda was keen to get dinner on the go … what a trooper … with Matt, Cathy, Eva and I heading off to shore.  By now the sun had won its battle with the clouds and was shining down on everything.  The sky was mostly blue and the last two hours of the day were shaping up as a magical time, with even the wind starting to take a rest. 

Once ashore we took the shortest track UP, along a path through green grass that looked just TOO green.  After a short time, we made our way onto a ridge that led the full length of the island and it was here that “magical” turned to sublime. 

Under a mostly blue sky, the low-hung rays of the Winter sun made the green grass glow and turned the distant misty clouds a washed-out vibrant yellow. 

The Best Tree Ever …
This tree had everything … location, location, location, plus a very high climbability rating
Beautiful views wherever you looked

We followed the grassy ridge path and after 5 minutes or so we encountered what Matthew described as … “his best tree ever” … and none of us could argue.  If Hobbiton was looking for a sister-city with a sea view, setting aside Makatu in the Bay of Plenty, then this grassy ridge, under the comforting arms and boughs of this truly amazing tree, would have to be high on the list

Best Tree Ever looked good from every angle

It was hard to draw ourselves away from the tree – “the best tree ever” – but soon enough we were back onboard – the inviting comfort of the cockpit and saloon hitting us like a warm embrace.  Along with the smells and sounds of dinner of course, which Linda had well in hand.

Good for climbing AND sitting under
You could get lost in this grass
Matt and Cathy are actually kneeing, but it was the sort of grass that beckoned you to lie down and rest
This place had all the makings of a new seaside Hobbiton retreat
Always good to see the boat still safely at anchor after a way away …
One last look back …
OK, this is the last look back at what was a brief but sublime experience
Making our way back down to the dinghy
Ready to go “home” to our little floating capsule

As Matt and I started the process of winching the dinghy onto the back davits, Cathy and Eva declared, “I think I’ll go for a swim” …  

I’d heard Eva say something similar up on the grassy ridge … but that was up there … and here we were down here … our little bay shrouded in shadows, sunlight fading, and a light shower starting fall from a passing cloud.  At the time, up on the ridge, I thought Eva was kidding, but no, here they both were adjusting their bathers, each clutching a towel, as they looked out of the cockpit windows at the grey world outside.

“Well, I’ll let down the side ladder … this looks serious” I said, moving forward on the portside.     A short time later Cathy and Eva appeared, descended the ladder and dived right in.  A fine example for us all!!  Not that anyone was about to follow their example … but they were the first (and only) ones to take the plunge since Nicola took a dive a couple of weeks back.   (Bit of a gender imbalance in the swimming department I’m detecting here …)

So they were serious …
No mucking about or time for second thoughts …

So, against all odds, as we approach 24 hours since James and Eva stepped aboard, we reflect on the precious moments we have all shared today – having the “whole gang” together, in this most wonderful part of the world. 

As a friend in Melbourne commented in an email to me yesterday … “Good to finally see all of you together, it’s been a worry for all of you. Enjoy all of you being together, take heaps of photos and soak up every minute I know how quickly life can go pear shaped so please enjoy each other.  Safe boating.

Testing my new camera in the fading light
Inside playing games around the saloon table

Which is good advice … maybe it was Yoda … “Mmmmm you must “BE” not just “DO” mmm” … soaking in the present, the now, the precious moments we share together, not taking them for granted, or wishing them away in favour of a future time or ideal.

  Getting deep now, but as the ol’ man used to say … “you don’t want to die wondering”.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and precious moments

Rob Latimer

The Gang Together at Last

Bay of Islands Marina, Opua North Island

Tuesday 6 July 2021

Our anchorage-for-the-night remained calm, (despite the pesky roll that got a bit more pronounced as the night went on) with the grey, windswept morning sky pointing to the blow that was expected to come through later in the day and evening.

Already we could see white caps out beyond the headland, with one yacht passing at a distance with just a small jib hoisted.  Maybe they were too lazy to hoist the mainsail, or maybe it was really blowing out there, I suppose we would find out soon enough.

In any case, once breakfast was complete and the anchor stowed, we put a reef in the mainsail as we quietly motored out of the bay.  The good thing about the northeast wind was that it generally came off our beam, or from behind us, making for a fast return to the marina. 

T’was a grey, showery morning
We were pleased the wind was largely from behind
It was a wild, grey morning sky that spoke of the big blow that was to come
Fixing the cable on the boom vang which had slipped off a roller

Our big concern, on arriving back at the marina, however, was entering our berth without doing any damage – to us or others.  Not that we’re in the habit of doing damage, it’s just that, as we discovered the other day, wind from the southeast requires the adoption of a special strategy.  Today it was bowing from the northeast and so our approach was a little on the timid side, as we considered a few options, including anchoring outside the marina, temporarily tying up at the very end of our marina wharf, or driving right into the marina, doing a 360-degree circle so as to then enter our berth from a different direction.   

In the end, things went pretty much like clockwork.  On final approach it was clear that a northeast wind blows directly from the front of our berth and so we could complete the required 90-degree righthand turn, and straighten up sufficiently, without being pushed sideways onto the poles.  Matt and Cathy secured the lines, once we’d got within stepping-off distance to the wharf – NO jumping or acrobatics please – and Linda was there too, passing lines like a professional.   

It was about 11:00am that we declared ourselves safely secured in the berth – making sure to keep the stern-hung dinghy inside the posts of course.  I wandered off to check on my two water pumps with Chris the marine electrician – they had arrived – as lunch became the next thing on the agenda.    

Cathy takes the bow line
Matt sorts the stern line and springer to “catch” us in the berth
My two new pumps … I tried to fit one, but Bear-man Chris is returning next Monday to do it properly

Linda’s skill for finding bugs-that-bite has once again come to the fore – call it a Superpower if you will.  Carrying mental scares from last year’s Fiordland sandflies, despite dressing much like a beekeeper when going ashore, Linda has been on high alert ever since arriving in the North Island. 

While fishing from the dinghy 10 days ago with John, I felt a small bug bite me – I’m reluctant to call it a sandfly – but I actually saw the little black creature on my hand – OK, yes, it WAS a sandfly – so I was in two minds as to whether I’d let Linda know of my experience.

In the end, honesty got the better of me and I shared knowledge of my two red itchy-bites on my right hand with Linda; she’s not one for big surprises after all.

Having NOT seen a sandfly, in nearly two weeks, I was therefore surprised when Linda started doing a count of her bites two nights ago in the saloon – all on her arms – “Where have they come from … are they sandflies … have you been bitten?” she pleaded

How can one person have so many bites??

Having declared she had something like 13 bites, my suggestion that it was only an average of 3 bites per person on board, didn’t go down very well; as she tried to cool them down without scratching. 

What followed was a purge on all bugs onboard – some of the peskiest being the ones that flock to the glowing chart plotter screen, or any other light that might be glowing in the darkness … “Are they bitey bugs?” asked Linda as I reached for the spray can … “No, they’re just buzzy bugs” I replied, being sure to spray again to get the ones that seemed oblivious to the first chemical attack.

So, let’s just hope we don’t find any more sandflies … but it seems the medications we found in the onboard kit are having a beneficial effect.

The big news tonight, of course, is that younger son James and his partner Eva are arriving from Canberra tonight.  Given all that’s gone on over the past few months, it’s still hard to believe it’s really happening.  But that said, I’ve checked online and I see the flight from Auckland to Kerikeri has landed on time – we’re assuming with James and Eva onboard. 

Earlier today I was able to find a taxi company that does pick-ups … and on the basis that I haven’t received a text, I’m assuming Margaret was there on time, and was able to pick her two passengers out from the “crowd” for the 30-minute run to the marina here at Opua.

Right now, Linda is weaving some magic in the galley, Matt and Cathy are playing cards in the saloon and I’m typing in my cabin.   The wind outside is really howling now, there were some showers a short time ago, but it’s very snug and warm here inside.

And that’s the phone … Margaret is just 10 minutes away in Paihia … I’ll leave the photos to tell the story of the reunion … the most unlikely of reunions, given all that’s gone on.   

Arrived at Opua!!! Finally, from Canberra, via Melbourne, Auckland and Kerikeri
You can see how windy it was … fortunately I don’t think Margaret will ever see this shot
Margaret kindly offered to take a photo
All together
The gang finally together – Rob, James, Matt, Eva, Cathy and Linda

Smooth seas, fair breeze and the gang together at last

Rob Latimer

Paradise Had No Internet

Waipao Bay, Moturua Island, Bay of Islands Marina, North Island

Monday 5 July 2021

In the end, the rolly-ness of last night’s anchorage did not prevent us from all getting a good sleep.  It was a lazy start to the day, with grey clouds covering the sky until the sun finally broke through and made an off-and-on appearance throughout the day.

We had been liaising via text, with James and Eva – who are due to be arriving late tomorrow – about what they should bring and what they can leave behind.  They were letting themselves start to become really excited about the impending holiday … so much so that they were actually starting to pack their bags.  As it turns out, Eva has altered their flights six times so far, in order to adjust to the various COVID travel restrictions.  And she hasn’t even booked their return fight, no doubt waiting till the last minute to minimise the likelihood of having to do it again.

Meanwhile, here on Chimere, we decided not to launch the dinghy and motor ashore, instead up-anchoring to explore more of the bays and waterways of the area.  This took us around the north side of Moturua Island and back through a narrow passage keeping smaller Motukiekie Island to port.  Both islands are privately owned and here’s an article from 2009 that’s of interest … HERE

Once clear of the southern tip of Motukiekie we headed north again, passing through the very narrow Waewaetorea Passage.  It was then on to Deep Water Cove about three miles away where we dropped anchor.

It was cloudy early on in the day as we chugged around
Privaely owned Motukiekie Island certainly displayed signs of luxury as we exercised our “Right Of Passage” in cruising past …
Out from behind the island and heading for Deep Water Cove
Some great rock formations to see

John’s sister, Mara, who jointly owns a catamaran which she keeps in the area, had mentioned Deep Water Cove as a lovely place to visit, and she was spot on.  You’d never guess what makes the place so distinctive … it has something to do with the water … it’s … it’s … Deep.  Hence the name Deep Water Cove?!  It’s certainly deeper than other places we’ve visited in the region, but, in keeping with the cruising guide, we were able to drop the anchor in about 9 metres of water about 200 metres from the shore.   

By now it was lunchtime, and after some snacks and a bowl of noodles … plus a sleep (that was only me) we were ready to explore ashore while bathed in wonderful sunshine – no water bathing for us!

Matt assumes command
Matt wears his safety harness
Can’t actually say it was cold, but it wasn’t warm either. The good thing is that it seemed to keep all the other boats away.
Something you’ve just got to do every now and then
Going ashore at Deep Water Cove … looks like we’re dressed to make a landing in the Antarctic!
Selfie madness … make sure you can see the boat
From any angle it was a lovely place
We had it all to ourselves after two boat loads of snorkelers took their leave after lunch
Probably seen enough of this place now.

Our onshore exploits were very modest … just a 15-minute walk up the valley through bush, then a 13-minute walk back again down the same track.  As you can see from the photos, there’s a rugged beauty to this particular cove, framed as it is by the steeply wooded hills that surround it.

The wind – as predicted – had moved throughout the day, from South east, to east, and now to north east, all the while light, but set to strengthen throughout tomorrow, reaching 40 knots by evening.  This is the sort of weather we’d prefer to avoid, and so it was decided to return to a more sheltered bay, closer to Opua, for tonight, so we can more easily return to the marina by around lunchtime tomorrow. 

This will kill a few birds with the one stone … assuming we’re still allowed to say such a thing without defining the species of bird we intend to kill, whether we have a licence, and the type of stone to be used … namely, to 1/. avoid the more severe weather predicted for the afternoon, 2/. chase-up the salt water pumps for the water maker and air conditioning unit AND 3/. be ready to welcome James and Eva aboard tomorrow night when they arrive!! Sound very positive don’t I?!

Which brings me to the title of tonight’s Post … as it tuns out, we have had pretty good internet and phone coverage all over the place here in the Bay of Islands; even in steep sided Deep Water Cove. 

Not that we are the sort of people who need to check our emails, texts and messages every 12 minutes … (hang on, I’ll just check) but there are a few things we really DO need communications coverage for.  Matt, in particular, does work in the robotics and automation fields and there are times, quite a few times actually and mostly afterhours, when he needs to connect to this or that manufacturing production line, or control system, to overcome a “bug”, or (mostly) “human error”. 

All part of keeping the wheels of industry turning … which I stopped doing a while ago on account of retirement.  That said, I AM a big supporter of the yacht maintenance and allied trades industries … as my bank account can attest.

Anyway, so the big task ahead of us now was … “where to drop the anchor for the night” … somewhere that … 1/. will give shelter from a northeast wind … 2/.  is remote, or at least free of any other boats … and 3/. is without a rolly swell.  

Our return from Deep Water Cove brought us inside Hat Island, and as we looked in the direction of our chosen anchorage, we notice that six other vessels had the same idea and were already parked – definitely a FAIL on criteria number 2.

Moving on, we now focused in on the very small Awaawaroa Bay on the privately owned island of Moturua Island and the closer we got the more beautiful it became.  Seeing luxury houses in the next-door bays, we were half expecting to spy a big house around the corner in this bay.  But no, it was perfect.  It really had everything, it was a little slice of paradise … or at least that’s what we thought.

Paradise found in small Awaawaroa Bay … unfortunately it didn’t have any inter-web

This was only discovered after we’d dropped the anchor, attached the snubber and were starting to lounge around and relax – chilling out for the night ahead.  It was Matt who first raised the flag … “do you have any bars on your phone father?”  he asked innocently enough … “I’ll check … mmmm no, not a one … maybe try it up on deck, or stand on the coach house”, I replied. 

Matt worshipping the digital deity of “Communications Access” … unfortunately we had to up-anchor and re-anchor around the corner

Meanwhile Cathy started climbing the ladder to the first crosstree, phone in hand, or between her teeth, I couldn’t tell …  “Nothing up here”  she cried. 

“Matt really needs the internet and phone for the business … but this bay is perfect”, commented Linda.   

 “Maybe we could run the dinghy out beyond the point” suggested Matt  … “Or hoist the phone up the mast as a hot spot” … I was running out of ideas.

So that’s how we set the record for the minimum amount of time spent at anchor in the one place.   Turning our backs on paradise, we headed up and around the coast, where we found Paradise 2.0 … almost as remote, no other yachts AND most importantly … 3 bars on the display … there IS a slight roll, being close to where we anchored last night … but it’s hardly discernible.

Anchor down for the second time in 30 minutes, Linda declared that dinner was almost ready!  And so were we.

Master chef Linda ! Why would you wanna eat anywhere else kids …?

On the James and Eva front … we just received a photo of them traveling by plane from Canberra to Melbourne; the first of three flights on their journey.  They’ll stay with Eva’s family tonight and resume their travels tomorrow – it’s starting to feel real?!

Eva and James start their journey from Canberra to Opua with a flight first to Melbourne

Smooth seas, fair breeze and Paradise Had No Internet

Rob Latimer

Hellos and Good-Bye

Mangahawea Bay, Moturua Island, Bay of Islands Marina, North Island

Sunday 4 July 2021

John joined us for breakfast around 8:15 this morning and as if two new pumps on order wasn’t enough, the ever-reliable, and over used, freshwater pump – which delivers hot and cold water to the galley, the two wash basins, the shower and also the deck shower near the port steps – decided to go on strike. 

The problem started a couple of days ago, which forced us to employ the manual foot pump, back-up system.  Then, every now and then, the water pump would decide to work, the water flowed through the taps … and we began to wonder whether it was when we turned the hot tap on.  Then, occasionally we’d turn on the hot tap, and nothing happened – no water.  So, we’d be back to foot pumping to fill the kettle.  Then all of a sudden, we had flowing water through the galley flick-mixer again.  The source of the problem seemed to be bordering on some mystical, supernatural influence

We had already lifted the floor to play with the motor, which would only have been around 2-3 years old – it looked brand new – very strange.  I was sure I had a replacement onboard, but in thinking back, and checking all the likely storage spots, I remember that this WAS the replacement pump.  I recall thinking, when the old original pump died … “these pumps last forever, I’ll install my spare and consider buying another in a few year’s time”

You don’t appreciate how essential the freshwater pump is until you don’t have it

As it turns out, I didn’t.  Fortunately, this is a 400-berth marina, and as a result, it supports two sizeable chandleries about 100 metres from where we are tied up.  And “yes”, they had this exact model on the shelf … “the 12 volt one please…”

Grabbing this brief moment to finish off the job – before Matt and Cathy arrived – John’s parting “gift” was to install the new fresh water pump.  Well, we both did really, but John did more bending and contorting than me, and he DID diagnose that the problem was … “definitely the pump” …

Around 10:45 we received a text from Matt and Cathy to say that they were in Paihia, a short distance away.  And so Uber-John drove us up, down, over and around the nearby hills – and past the sign in a gully, out the front of a small bottle shop (and not more than 500 metres BEFORE a sign that said “Welcome to Paihia”) … and the sign said … “LAST LIQUOR STORE BEFORE PAIHIA”.  Not only were we picking up Matt and Cathy, but we were also taking the opportunity to mount an assault on the supermarket in preparation for the week ahead. 

It was great to see Matt and Cathy again, and to hear in detail the rigmarole they have gone through – plus Cathy’s brother Doug and wife Em – firstly, in actually getting into the country, and then complying with the COVID restrictions imposed just hours after their arrival at Auckland airport a week ago. 

Meeting Matt and Cathy in Paihia

At one point Matt related how Doug and Em – who were supposed to be traveling to New Zealand a day or two before them – sent a photo of them sitting in their seats, excitedly waiting for their plane to be pushed back in readiness for take-off.  Come morning, there was another photo showing them sitting in the Melbourne terminal, where they’d ‘slept’ all night because their plane had a faulty radio – it didn’t go anywhere.  This was after having decided only three days earlier that they wouldn’t travel because of the COVID situation.  After about 20 hours of sitting in the terminal they finally got on a plane, only to have the COVID travel door shut behind them about 2 hours after landing at Auckland.

The good news is that Matt and Cathy have finally made it onboard – more than a year after they … along with Linda, James and Eva were supposed to have joined us in the Bay of Islands … according to sailing PLAN “A”.

John stayed for lunch, but soon enough he stepped off Chimere for the last time to make his way back to Mountain Road in the Hokianga.  As this “adventure door” closes, we were sure another will open soon enough.

Last good-bye to Chimere
Some great times !
To future adventures !!

It took a while to stow all the supermarket goodies … which included ice-cream … plus there was the much-needed clean-out of the fridge, but while this was happening down below, Matt and I began preparing to head out.  Nothing too ambitious, after all, there was probably only 1-2 hours of daylight left, but there was no point sleeping the night in a manicured marina berth, when we could just as easily anchor-up in an isolated cove somewhere “out there”.

Getting “out there” is normally a simple task of backing out of the berth, shoving it in forward gear and then driving carefully to miss all solid and moving objects.  Today, however, the wind had picked up from the south east, which had the effect of pushing us OFF the finger-wharf located on our starboard side.  Normally, having the wind blow you OFF a wharf, is a useful thing when taking your leave.  In our case, however, two big piles are located on the left side of our berth, which we tie our bow and stern lines to.  These posts also stop us from crashing into – sorry, bumping – the boat in the next berth.

With the wind blowing onto our right side, and taking into account our large “windage” … our dilemma was that as soon as we let go our lines the wind would have us travelling sideways into the posts before we had time to back out of the berth.  Added to this is the fact that we have a rather delicate wooden ladder structure on the portside that could not stand a glancing blow of a 27-ton boat against a post … no matter how slow you did it.  In the big world of cargo ships, this is where tug boats come into their own.

In the end, our winning strategy was to attach long lines at the bow and stern and also in the middle of the boat, that were fed through the cleat on the dock and back to Chimere.  Then, as we did our backing manoeuvrer, the three lines were fed out, but at the same time kept in tight to ensure we stayed as close to the righthand wharf as possible – at least till the point when our backing speed would win over the sideways drift, and we were sure to miss the posts.

This even called for Linda to take charge of a rope … the same Linda who is often spotted in the saloon trying to calmly read a book, at times of docking and undocking “stress”.

The long and short of it is that we got away from the wharf happily and then used the breeze to make our way down the harbour, with Paihia and Waitangi off to port, then past Tapeka Point and onto our anchorage for the night.

Matt and Cathy start to chill on board
Got to find an anchorage before dark
Cathy assumes the sailing position
Can’t help but think there might be problems ahead here …
Sun goes down quickly around here
Every sunset is different

That’s how we ended up here in Mangahawea Bay, Motururu Island.  Whilst it’s sheltered from the south east wind, in retrospect I overlooked the impact of the swell, which, whilst very slight, seems to wrap around the headland, setting up a pesky roll from time to time.  Nothing we can’t handle, but you know, we’re getting fussy!

Dinner consisted of “Mummy Burgers” … complete with toasted bun, pineapple rings, beetroot and fried egg, plus all the other usual toppings.  This was followed by apple crumble, topped with custard and ice-cream.  Being spoilt now!

Not being antisocial but I need to concentrate to write proper good … doh!

After so many late nights, I’ve resolved to catch up on some sleep, so …

Smooth seas, fair breeze and Hellos and Good-Bye

Rob Latimer

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