Another Day, Another Fiord

Alice Falls Anchorage, George Sound

Wednesday 11 March 2020

The sun seems to be getting up later and later these days, with our 7:00am departure from Toe Cove in Nancy’s Sound being in the dark, as we relied mostly on the black trail left on the chartplotter from yesterday’s arrival, to guide us out.

There was almost enough light, however, from the setting, near-full-moon as we made our way down the Sound.  But soon enough the sun was shining on the high peaks above and eventually the chilly, dewy morning was replaced by a warm, sunny; almost balmy day.

It was a relatively short hop up the coast, past the entrances to Charles Sound and Caswell Sound to our planned destination for the night … George Sound.  This Sound was described as having … “lots of interesting features”, very steep and spectacular, with its proximity to Milford Sound making it a popular stop-off point for tour boats.

Certainly, the sight of two cruise ships – Ruby Princess and Silver Muse – heading south, just a few miles further off the coast than us, put us on notice, that we should expect to see people and boats inside George Sound.  But as it turned out, we had the place all to ourselves; much like Nancy Sound and many of the others as well.

As we made our way up the coast we tried fishing (again) using our much hyped … “Tuna Slayer” lure.  Unfortunately, the results were the same, but we hold out great hope of catching something, one day, eventually, on a lure … which looks so tasty!

Having considered the rugged mountains we’d seen to date to be “impressive”, we were now treated to glimpses of even bigger, more impressive mountains further up the coast, in the order of 8-9,000 feet in height.  Some of these peaks even bore patches of ice and snow, which glistened in the sun, making them appear even higher. 

It was around 12 noon that we entered George Sound around 12:00 noon, and over the next two hours we worked our way up to the head of the inlet; the twenty-knot head wind slowing our progress to around 5 knots.

By now, we’d become used to the Fiordland, sailing routine …

– make a short hop along the coast,

– enter a narrow gap from the sea,

– cruise up a long passage inland surrounded by hills and mountains either side,

– finally arrive at a “basin” or abrupt dead-end, into which one or more rivers ran down the valleys; often terminating in a waterfall.

… this all naturally culminating in a stunning anchorage.

Well, George Sound had all of this, but as a special bonus, the anchorage was immediately next to the waterfall, which itself was a very impressive, loud and thunderous affair; swollen by the recent rains. 

On approach, the Alice Falls, seemed to completely fill the end of the Sound.  It was only when you looked a bit closer, and crept further in, that you discovered it extended a further 50-100 metres into the encircling trees, placing it effectively next to the waterfall. 

It was reassuring to read the Cruising Guide note … “In order to hold your boat steady from the water swirl caused by the falls during heavy rain there are two stern lines and two bow lines available, as shown in the sketch.  Be careful not to move too far back into the cove because it shallows rapidly.  Allow for the 1.2-1.8 tidal range”

In the end we dropped our anchor on approach, after which we ran out two stern lines and one bow line, holding us extremely securely. We didn’t bother with an anchor alarm tonight, figuring that if Chimere can escape this spiders web of lines then she deserves a reward.

Soon after turning off the engine, we had the dinghy over the side and we being drawn to the waterfall, with thoughts of actually having a swim.  By now it was around 4:00pm and the afternoon sun was already starting to climb the walls of the surrounding mountains. 

All the while the sand flies continued their relentless attack, as we used netting, spray and layers of clothing in defence.  This presented a particular challenge in light of the decision to make our way over to the nearby waterfall for a swim.  Swimming naturally involves baring a bit of skin to the elements, but this would all too readily be bitten by the bugs!  In the end this created a wonderful incentive, if one was needed, to get immersed in the frigid water, as soon as possible; cold water being more preferable to the risk of being bitten.

After the initial temperature-shock, not to mention the saga of finding a suitable landing spot for the dinghy, plus path over the rocks and through the bush in search of a safe spot to enter the stream, we had a wonderful time in the water.  The sun’s rays on our side of the falls almost giving it summer-feel; if ever so briefly. 

Pretty soon our part of the valley was in shadows and it was time to make our way back to our snug – and fully netted – home on the water, with James taking charge of dinner.  In this, he made good use of the good use of the “new” crayfish (rock lobster), given to us two days ago

With the dramatic scenery just getting better and better, it is with anticipation that we consider our arrival in Milford Sound tomorrow; after another short hop up the coast.  It’s here that we will be able to stringing a couple of nights at anchor – in the one spot – and where we will have a full day to explore the region on Friday.

There’s also a chance I might be able to find a WiFi internet connection, so as to check a few emails.  In particular whether there’s been any interest in joining the sail from Milford to Wellington.  At this stage it looks like John and I will be the only ones sailing this 460-mile leg – leaving on Sunday.  But whilst we’re not holding our breath, there might be an eager back-packer or two on shore at Milford looking for their next adventure?!

For now, it’s time to go to sleep with the roar of nearby Alice Falls, thundering down the cataract, over the rapids and into the bay, just 100 metres off our port bow.

Smooth seas, fair breeze and another day, another fiord

Rob Latimer

PS  I’m still looking for extra crew to assist with the 8-day voyage, from Milford Sound to Wellington, starting on 14 March.   If you or a friend want to join us, please sing out ASAP.  Email me on the satphone at …   msm1@clientsatmail.com.au and latimerfamily4@gmail.com but remember, no file attachments)